I have a model that I would like to 3D Print. Which printer should I choose?

* I'm printing something that has *very* fine detail
** Our [[Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra|Elegoo Saturn]] resin printers (Dione and Tethys) are capable of printing features with a resolution of around 0.02 mm
* I'm printing something large
** Our [[Prusa XL]] filament printer can print up to 360mm × 360mm × 360mm or 14.17" × 14.17" × 14.17"
** Our [[BambuLab P1S]] filament printers (Athena, Bastet, Chantico, Hanuman, and Zephyrus) can print up to 256mm × 256mm × 256mm or 10.08" × 10.08" × 10.08"
* I'm printing something with abrasive filament, like filament with wood, carbon fiber, or glass particles in it or filament that glows in the dark
** Our [[Prusa MK3S+]] filament printers (Apollo, Hermes, and Sun Wukong) have ObXidian hardened steel nozzles
** Our [[Prusa XL]] filament printer has '''one''' hardened steel nozzle, on Extruder 1

* I'm printing something that uses multiple different filaments (multiple colors or different materials)
** Our [[BambuLab P1S]] filament printers with AMS units can print up to 4 filaments in a job. Note that filament changes on these printers are relatively slow and use extra filament because they purge the extruder each time they change filaments and print wipe towers.
** Our [[Prusa XL]] filament printer can print up to 5 filaments in a job. Filament changes on this printer are relatively quick and use only as much extra filament as it takes to print a wipe tower.
** All of our filament printers can be set up to let you do manual filament changes. If you have a small number of filament changes, and are willing to stick around during the print, this is a reasonable option. This is particularly good if your filament changes only happen at layer boundaries, for example if you're printing a name tag and have raised lettering in a different color above the surface of the rest of the tag
* I'm in a hurry
** For single filament prints, our [[BambuLab P1S]] filament printers are the fastest
** For single filament prints, our [[Prusa XL]] is fairly fast
** For multiple filament prints, our [[Prusa XL]] is the fastest

Which 3D Printer?

2026-03-05T23:16:08Z

Aneel:

I have a model that I would like to 3D Print. Which printer should I choose?

* I'm printing something that has *very* fine detail
** Our [[Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra|Elegoo Saturn]] resin printers (Dione and Tethys) are capable of printing features with a resolution of around 0.02 mm
* I'm printing something large
** Our [[Prusa XL]] filament printer can print up to 360mm × 360mm × 360mm or 14.17" × 14.17" × 14.17"
** Our [[BambuLab P1S]] filament printers (Athena, Bastet, Chantico, Hanuman, and Zephyrus) can print up to 256mm × 256mm × 256mm or 10.08" × 10.08" × 10.08"
* I'm printing something with abrasive filament, like filament with wood, carbon fiber, or glass particles in it or filament that glows in the dark
** Our [[Prusa MK3S+]] filament printers (Apollo, Hermes, and Sun Wukong) have ObXidian hardened steel nozzles
** Our [[Prusa XL]] filament printer has '''one''' hardened steel nozzle, on Extruder 1
* I'm printing something that uses multiple different filaments (multiple colors or different materials)
** Our [[BambuLab P1S]] filament printers with AMS units can print up to 4 filaments in a job. Note that filament changes on these printers are relatively slow and use extra filament because they purge the extruder each time they change filaments and print wipe towers.
** Our [[Prusa XL]] filament printer can print up to 5 filaments in a job. Filament changes on this printer are relatively quick and use only as much extra filament as it takes to print a wipe tower.
** All of our filament printers can be set up to let you do manual filament changes. If you have a small number of filament changes, and are willing to stick around during the print, this is a reasonable option. This is particularly good if your filament changes only happen at layer boundaries, for example if you're printing a name tag and have raised lettering in a different color above the surface of the rest of the tag

Which 3D Printer?

2026-03-05T23:09:10Z

Aneel:

2026-03-02T05:25:39Z

Aneel:

Filament Respooler

2026-03-02T05:22:43Z

Aneel: Created page with "Asmbly has a (mostly) 3D Printed filament respooler designed to transfer filament from one spool to another. <INSERT PHOTO OF EQUIPMENT> == Safety == {{UniversalSafety}}..."

Asmbly has a (mostly) 3D Printed filament respooler designed to transfer filament from one spool to another.

<INSERT PHOTO OF EQUIPMENT>

== Safety ==

{{UniversalSafety}}

==== Equipment-Specific Safety ====
No special PPE is required to use this tool.

== Use Case ==

Asmbly has a number of [[BambuLab P1S]] 3D Printers with Advanced Material Systems (AMS). The AMS units allow up to four filaments to be used simultaneously. However, these units are more picky about the filament spools that they support than our other printers. Filament spools need to be within a certain range of sizes, and cardboard spools may not be used without protective rings that protect the cardboard from the drive wheels that spin the spools.

Asmbly has constructed a [https://www.printables.com/model/407688-bambu-lab-p1-x1-x1c-x1cc-filament-spool-switcher-w respooler] designed by Miklos Kiszely, enhanced with an aluminum axle to replace one that experiences heavy wear in the standard model.

Respooling a spool takes a few minutes, and does not require a Skedda reservation.

== Materials ==

==== Material Limits ====

Most 1kg or smaller spools should work in the respooler. We have a variety of sizes of spool centering discs, ranging from 50mm to 75mm. More sizes can be created if there is demand.

==== Consumables ====

There are donated plastic spools on the shelving unit in the back corner of the MPR. You are welcome to transfer your filament to those spools and take the spools home as you need to. If you see the stock of donated spools getting low and you have plastic spools that fit in the AMS that you don't need, we would appreciate donations.

Blue painter's tape should be available around the shop.

== Operation ==

<gallery>
[[File:Reciever spool with centering disc.jpg|thumb|Reciever spool with centering disc]]
[[File:Receiver spool on carriage.jpg|thumb|Receiver spool on carriage]]
[[File:Donor spool on carriage.jpg|thumb|Donor spool on carriage]]
[[File:Feeding the filament through the tube.jpg|thumb|Feeding the filament through the tube]]
[[File:Adjusting the tube placement.jpg|thumb|Adjusting the tube placement]]
[[File:Aligned tube.jpg|thumb|Aligned tube]]
[[File:Winding.jpg|thumb|Winding]]

Example.jpg|Caption1
Example.jpg|Caption2
</gallery>

To start, find centering discs that fit your donor and receiver spools. It is important to get a good fit at least on the receiver spool, because a wobble will make the winding uneven. There are color-coded pairs of centering discs ranging from 50 to 75mm.

Place the centering discs on the sides of your spools and screw on the spool axles. '''Note that these screws are left-hand threaded!''' They tighten counterclockwise and loosen clockwise. This is so they don't loosen as you operate the respooler. If you try turning them and they seem impossible to loosen, try turning the other direction.

The receiver spool needs to have an axle with a gear on it.

Place the receiver spool on the yellow side of the respooler with all of the gears and the donor spool on the black side. And crank the handle to make sure the gear is seated properly. It should turn easily. If it takes a lot of force, the gear is probably not aligned properly.

As you turn the handle, you will see the feeder carriage move from side to side. You want it aligned so that it moves from one side of your spool to the other evenly, rather than lingering too long on one side. You can do this by winding the carriage until it reaches one side of its travel. Loosen the lower pair of thumb screws and move the filament tube so that it just touches the side of the spool. Finally tighten the thumb screws and crank through a full cycle to make sure it's properly aligned. [https://youtu.be/vjryQtlMMHc?t=685 See the designer's video if this explanation is unclear.]

Now feed filament from the donor spool through the tube and attach it to the receiver spool. The receiver spool may have a hole to insert the end of the filament into, but it may be easier to just stick it in place with blue tape.

Crank the handle clockwise with even force to transfer the filament. If it suddenly becomes hard to turn the handle, the receiver spool's gear has probably gotten misaligned. Without releasing tension on the handle, realign the gear. If you let go of the handle, your filament will probably loosen and you'll be sad.

==== Feeds and Speeds ====

It takes a few minutes to hand crank filament from one spool to another. Don't go so fast that the friction starts to melt the plastic where the receiver spool rests in the carriage! It might be tempting to try using a drill to speed things up, like the designer does in some of the videos. Every time I've tried that, an axle has broken.

{{UniversalCleaning}}

==== Tool Specific Cleaning Guide ====

Please keep the centering discs and axles arranged neatly.

== Resources ==

[https://www.printables.com/model/407688-bambu-lab-p1-x1-x1c-x1cc-filament-spool-switcher-w Printables page for this model.]

File:Winding.jpg

2026-03-02T05:22:22Z

Aneel:

Winding

File:Aligned tube.jpg

2026-03-02T05:21:43Z

Aneel:

Aligned tube

File:Adjusting the tube placement.jpg

2026-03-02T05:21:08Z

Aneel:

Adjusting the tube placement

File:Feeding the filament through the tube.jpg

2026-03-02T05:20:19Z

Aneel:

Feeding the filament through the tube