Difference between revisions of "Makita LS1219L Sliding Compound Miter Saw"

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= This Page Is Under Construction =
 
= This Page Is Under Construction =
{{Note<!--T:11--> Please disregard it for now...}}
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{{Note|type=error|text=🛑 <b>This page is a work in progress for the Wiki Overhaul project.</b>}}
  
 
==Purpose==
 
==Purpose==
 
The Mikita LS1219L sliding compound miter saw is used to make crosscuts only in wood and wood composite materials (e.g., plywood, MDF). Typical categories of crosscuts are listed below.  
 
The Mikita LS1219L sliding compound miter saw is used to make crosscuts only in wood and wood composite materials (e.g., plywood, MDF). Typical categories of crosscuts are listed below.  
  
'''NOTE: No metal shall be cut on this saw!'''
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{{Note|type=error|text=🛑 <b>No metal shall be cut on this saw!</b>}}
  
 
====Terms====
 
====Terms====
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*'''Slide Cut:''' A “slide cut” is made with the head assembly unlocked and able to move away from the fence. This movement is supported and precisely controlled by the axial glide system. The maximum cross-cutting capacity is utilized by using this method.  A slide cut is best used for cross-cutting workpieces wider than can be done with a chop cut – pieces wider than 5-1/2" and up to a maximum width of 15" across.  '''NEVER pull the saw toward you during a cut. The blade can suddenly climb up on top of the workpiece and force itself toward you.'''
 
*'''Slide Cut:''' A “slide cut” is made with the head assembly unlocked and able to move away from the fence. This movement is supported and precisely controlled by the axial glide system. The maximum cross-cutting capacity is utilized by using this method.  A slide cut is best used for cross-cutting workpieces wider than can be done with a chop cut – pieces wider than 5-1/2" and up to a maximum width of 15" across.  '''NEVER pull the saw toward you during a cut. The blade can suddenly climb up on top of the workpiece and force itself toward you.'''
*'''Miter Cut:''' A “miter cut” is a crosscut made with the blade perpendicular to the horizontal table. The blade is not tilted, and the bevel pointers are both on the 0° lines.   Miter cuts can be made at any angle across a workpiece within this saw’s range, up to 60° left and right.
+
*'''Miter Cut:''' A “miter cut” is a crosscut made with the blade perpendicular to the horizontal table. The blade is not tilted, and the bevel pointers are both on the 0° lines. Miter cuts can be made at any angle across a workpiece within this saw’s range, up to 60° left and right.
 
*'''Bevel Cut:''' A “bevel cut” is a crosscut made with the blade perpendicular to the fence and with the table set at 0° miter. The blade can be tilted to any angle within the saw’s 48° range.
 
*'''Bevel Cut:''' A “bevel cut” is a crosscut made with the blade perpendicular to the fence and with the table set at 0° miter. The blade can be tilted to any angle within the saw’s 48° range.
 
*'''Compound Cuts:''' A “compound cut” is a single crosscut made with the saw blade preset at two angles combining a miter angle (relative to the vertical fence) with a bevel angle (relative to the horizontal table). A compound cut can be made as a chop cut or a slide cut.  Miter angles will be with the table rotated away from 0° and within the saw’s range.  A bevel angle is when the blade is tilted away from 0°. This saw’s range is from right.
 
*'''Compound Cuts:''' A “compound cut” is a single crosscut made with the saw blade preset at two angles combining a miter angle (relative to the vertical fence) with a bevel angle (relative to the horizontal table). A compound cut can be made as a chop cut or a slide cut.  Miter angles will be with the table rotated away from 0° and within the saw’s range.  A bevel angle is when the blade is tilted away from 0°. This saw’s range is from right.
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* No metal shall be cut.
 
* No metal shall be cut.
  
===== Materials =====
+
== Materials ==
 
+
Work piece material choices include wood, composite wood, and wood products.
* Work piece material choices include wood, composite wood, and wood products.
 
  
 
==Training==
 
==Training==
Line 53: Line 52:
 
== Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) ==
 
== Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) ==
  
===== Required =====
+
==== Required ====
 
*Close-toed shoes
 
*Close-toed shoes
 +
*Eye protection
  
===== Recommended =====
+
==== Recommended ====
*Eye protection
 
 
*Hearing protection
 
*Hearing protection
 +
*Avoiding gloves (to prevent potential snagging or entanglement of fingers)
 
==Tool Safety Rules==
 
==Tool Safety Rules==
  
Line 72: Line 72:
 
*Never feed the running saw blade into the work piece at rate faster than is safe for the material type or size.
 
*Never feed the running saw blade into the work piece at rate faster than is safe for the material type or size.
 
*Never make freehand cuts by raising the work piece into the saw blade.
 
*Never make freehand cuts by raising the work piece into the saw blade.
*Do attempt to work pieces that are too small to easily hold with your hands. Instead, use a clamping jig or fixture.
+
*Do attempt to work pieces that are too small to easily hold with your hands. Instead, use a clamping jig or fixture. If the work piece is shorter than 4 inches, consider using a different machine.
 +
*When in doubt, ask for assistance!
  
 
==Proper Setup and Use==
 
==Proper Setup and Use==
 +
'''Proper Setup and Use'''
 +
 +
'''Getting To Know the Miter Saw'''
 +
 +
* '''General Miter Saw Preparations'''
 +
** '''Hand and Body Position'''
 +
*** The work piece MUST be held firmly and securely against the table and fence to prevent the piece from moving while it is being cut.
 +
*** Always use the sliding base extensions, and additional workpiece supports such as clamps or hold down sticks to properly secure the work piece outside the “No Hands Zone”.
 +
*** If it is safe, the work piece can be securely held against the table and fence with your hand only outside “No Hands Zone”.
 +
*** Never place your hands on or near the saw blade while in operation.
 +
*** Keep your feet firmly planted on the floor and maintain a firm balanced stance.
 +
** '''Dry Run:''' It is critical to know where the saw blade will intersect with the work piece while making the cut.
 +
** '''Simulated Cut''': With the power OFF, and the work piece firmly secured against the table and fence, lower the saw head and make note of how and where the saw blade intersects with the work piece.
 +
** A'''djustments:''' Make any necessary adjustments to add clamps if your hand will be close the “No Hands Zone” or move them so they do not interfere with the saw blade guard during the actual cut.
 +
 +
* '''Cross Cut (Chop Cut)]'''
 +
** '''Preparing the Miter Saw'''
 +
** Using a “Tried & True” (has been tested and proven to be accurate) square, check that the saw blade is at 90° perpendicular to saw table, and at 90°perpendicular to the saw fence.
 +
** If either of these angles are off a perfect 90°, adjust the miter saw as per the manual.
 +
 +
o   '''Preparing for the Cross Cut (Chop Cut)'''
 +
 +
* Ensure the work area (floor, saw table, surrounding work tables, Etc.) is free of debris and tripping hazards.
 +
* Ensure the saw head is in the UP position and pushed back over the rear fence.
 +
* Ensure that the sliding lever lock is engaged. If necessary, engage the lock and re-test to ensure the saw head does not slide forward.
 +
* Position your work piece and clamp as necessary per the above Hand and Body Position instructions.
 +
* Active the laser light power switch if desired.
 +
* Perform your Dry Run and make all necessary adjustments to your set up for a safe Cross Cut.
 +
 +
o   '''Cross Cut (Chop Cut) Procedure'''
 +
 +
* Activate the power switch and then gently lower the saw head into the work piece to begin making the cross cut.
 +
* Continue the downward pressure until the saw blade cut all the way through the work piece.
 +
* Hold the saw head down and release the power switch while keeping your hands in this position until the saw blade comes to a full stop.
 +
* Once the saw blade has come to a full stop, raise the saw head upward into its UP position.
 +
* Turn off laser light if it was used.
 +
* Remove your work piece and off cut.
 +
 +
o   '''Clean Up'''
 +
 +
* Either dispose of your off cut into a trash can, take home it home, or if its large enough for someone else to use, place it on the scrap cart.
 +
* Using a brush, clean all the saw surfaces and surrounding miter saw station tables.
 +
* Sweep the floor gathering up all the saw dust and wood chips and dispose of them into a trash can.
 +
* An alternative is to use a shop vac to clean up the miter saw, miter saw station, and floor.
 +
 +
¨    '''Slide Cut'''
 +
 +
¨    '''Miter Cut'''
 +
 +
¨    '''Bevel Cut'''
 +
 +
¨    '''Compound Cuts'''
 +
 +
¨    '''Grooving Cut'''
 +
 +
 +
 +
==== Before Use ====
 +
 +
* Clear the fence and surrounding area of any debris.
 +
* Set your angles.
 +
* Turn on the laser sight if desired.
 +
* Secure the work piece firmly against the fence; never attempt to cut anything without the work piece firmly held in place.
 +
** A work piece needs at least 4” of contact with the fence to ensure stability during the cut.
 +
 +
==== During Use ====
 +
 +
* (Almost) always hold the work piece with your left hand, while using the right hand to control the saw.
 +
** Keep hands and fingers more than 6” from the blade.
 +
* Let the blade achieve full speed for 1-2 seconds before making contact with the work piece.
 +
* Let the blade do the cutting, '''don't force it!'''
 +
** Larger work pieces and harder woods will require slower cutting. A brand new blade will cut more quickly than a blade that has seen a few hundred cuts. If you’re forcing the blade through the wood, you’re sawing too fast. If you see smoke, you’re sawing too fast, and possibly using a blade that needs to be replaced.
 +
* For cuts that require the saw to slide, always extend the saw out to match the width of the work piece before initiating the cut. As the cut is being made, slowly push the saw down and back towards the fence.
 +
* Let the blade come to a complete stop before removing your work piece.
 +
 +
==== After Use ====
 +
 +
* Return the miter saw to neutral position, turn off the laser, and remove any cutoff scraps that might have fallen near the fence or behind the saw.
 +
* Activate the dust collector and use a bench brush to sweep sawdust and small debris into the dust chute.
 +
** Please DO NOT use compressed air to remove sawdust.
 +
* Sweep the miter benches (left and right of the saw) and leave the area clean and inviting for the next member.
  
 
== Troubleshooting ==
 
== Troubleshooting ==
 
[https://wiki.asmbly.org/index.php/File:Mikita_Miter_Saw_LS1219L_-_Manual.pdf Mikita LS1219L Sliding Compound Miter Saw Manual]
 
[https://wiki.asmbly.org/index.php/File:Mikita_Miter_Saw_LS1219L_-_Manual.pdf Mikita LS1219L Sliding Compound Miter Saw Manual]
 
[[Category:Overhauling]]
 
[[Category:Overhauling]]

Latest revision as of 01:51, 2 July 2024

This Page Is Under Construction

🛑 This page is a work in progress for the Wiki Overhaul project.


Purpose

The Mikita LS1219L sliding compound miter saw is used to make crosscuts only in wood and wood composite materials (e.g., plywood, MDF). Typical categories of crosscuts are listed below.

🛑 No metal shall be cut on this saw!


Terms

  • Cross Cut (Chop Cut): A “chop cut” is a crosscut made when the saw is held to the rearmost position and is operated like a conventional (non-sliding) miter saw. Using the chop cut method lowers the cross-cutting capacity; however, many users prefer using this method because it is quicker when making repeat cuts. This method can also produce more accurate cuts because the saw head is locked in the retracted position.
  • Slide Cut: A “slide cut” is made with the head assembly unlocked and able to move away from the fence. This movement is supported and precisely controlled by the axial glide system. The maximum cross-cutting capacity is utilized by using this method. A slide cut is best used for cross-cutting workpieces wider than can be done with a chop cut – pieces wider than 5-1/2" and up to a maximum width of 15" across. NEVER pull the saw toward you during a cut. The blade can suddenly climb up on top of the workpiece and force itself toward you.
  • Miter Cut: A “miter cut” is a crosscut made with the blade perpendicular to the horizontal table. The blade is not tilted, and the bevel pointers are both on the 0° lines. Miter cuts can be made at any angle across a workpiece within this saw’s range, up to 60° left and right.
  • Bevel Cut: A “bevel cut” is a crosscut made with the blade perpendicular to the fence and with the table set at 0° miter. The blade can be tilted to any angle within the saw’s 48° range.
  • Compound Cuts: A “compound cut” is a single crosscut made with the saw blade preset at two angles combining a miter angle (relative to the vertical fence) with a bevel angle (relative to the horizontal table). A compound cut can be made as a chop cut or a slide cut. Miter angles will be with the table rotated away from 0° and within the saw’s range. A bevel angle is when the blade is tilted away from 0°. This saw’s range is from right.
  • Groove Cuts: A groove cut should be made as a slide cut. The depth stop adjustment feature is used to limit blade depth of the saw bade when cutting the grooves. NOTE: For best results, Asmbly recommends using the table saw with an optional dado blade set for cutting grooves and non-through cuts.

Hazards

As with all machine tools, there are many hazards associated with their use and exposure to bystanders. Some of the hazards include, but are not limited to the following:

  • Amputation: The high speed and large diameter rotating saw blade poses significant a risk. Body parts must always be kept out of the path of the saw blade. Absolutely no adjustments shall be made to cutting angles (bevel or miter), fences, or stops until the saw has been turned off and the blade comes to a complete stop.
  • Puncture or Laceration: The sharpness of saw blade teeth pose a risk of injury during setup, handling, or saw blade replacement.
  • Kickback/Projectiles/Flying Objects: The high rate of speed at which the saw blade is rotating can cause kickback to the work piece. When this occurs, the saw may shift violently, cause the work piece to shift and/or break apart and splinter, and cause the offcut, dust and chips to become projectiles.
  • Other: The rotational direction of the saw blade is always pulling the work piece into the cut (this is referred to as a climb cut). This creates two direct hazards:
  1. You may be pulled into the saw blade cut.
  2. The saw blade may suddenly come out of the work piece and move towards you. You must maintain firm control of the saw head by utilizing the handle to prevent either of these from occurring.

Limitations

  • The compound sliding miter saw must only be used for cross cuts.
  • The width of the work piece is limited to:
  • No metal shall be cut.

Materials

Work piece material choices include wood, composite wood, and wood products.

Training

Required
Recommended
  • Successfully demonstrate knowledge and proficiency in the following Training Competencies:
    • Identify and describe all control, adjustments, and functions of the compound sliding miter saw.
    • Correctly setup and adjust the compound sliding miter saw for all types of cuts.
    • Demonstrate proper judgement in selecting clamping/securing work piece holding for the appropriate type of cuts.
    • Demonstrate knowledge and the ability to reset all compound sliding miter saw functions to square and perpendicular following each type of cut in preparation for the next user.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Required

  • Close-toed shoes
  • Eye protection

Recommended

  • Hearing protection
  • Avoiding gloves (to prevent potential snagging or entanglement of fingers)

Tool Safety Rules

  • Observe and follow all Asmbly Woodshop Rules.
  • Understand and follow the Makita’s manufacturer operating procedures.
  • Verify all saw blade guards are in place and adjusted correctly.
  • Never bypass a safety device.
  • Ensure that the dust collector is hooked up and functioning correctly before use.
  • Never leave the compound sliding miter saw unattended while it is running.
  • Clean the tool and surrounding area before (if necessary) and after use.
  • Ensure the surrounding area is free of tripping hazards before use.
  • Ensure the power is off before making any adjustments, changing the saw blade, or physically inspecting the saw blade.
  • Never feed the running saw blade into the work piece at rate faster than is safe for the material type or size.
  • Never make freehand cuts by raising the work piece into the saw blade.
  • Do attempt to work pieces that are too small to easily hold with your hands. Instead, use a clamping jig or fixture. If the work piece is shorter than 4 inches, consider using a different machine.
  • When in doubt, ask for assistance!

Proper Setup and Use

Proper Setup and Use

Getting To Know the Miter Saw

  • General Miter Saw Preparations
    • Hand and Body Position
      • The work piece MUST be held firmly and securely against the table and fence to prevent the piece from moving while it is being cut.
      • Always use the sliding base extensions, and additional workpiece supports such as clamps or hold down sticks to properly secure the work piece outside the “No Hands Zone”.
      • If it is safe, the work piece can be securely held against the table and fence with your hand only outside “No Hands Zone”.
      • Never place your hands on or near the saw blade while in operation.
      • Keep your feet firmly planted on the floor and maintain a firm balanced stance.
    • Dry Run: It is critical to know where the saw blade will intersect with the work piece while making the cut.
    • Simulated Cut: With the power OFF, and the work piece firmly secured against the table and fence, lower the saw head and make note of how and where the saw blade intersects with the work piece.
    • Adjustments: Make any necessary adjustments to add clamps if your hand will be close the “No Hands Zone” or move them so they do not interfere with the saw blade guard during the actual cut.
  • Cross Cut (Chop Cut)]
    • Preparing the Miter Saw
    • Using a “Tried & True” (has been tested and proven to be accurate) square, check that the saw blade is at 90° perpendicular to saw table, and at 90°perpendicular to the saw fence.
    • If either of these angles are off a perfect 90°, adjust the miter saw as per the manual.

o   Preparing for the Cross Cut (Chop Cut)

  • Ensure the work area (floor, saw table, surrounding work tables, Etc.) is free of debris and tripping hazards.
  • Ensure the saw head is in the UP position and pushed back over the rear fence.
  • Ensure that the sliding lever lock is engaged. If necessary, engage the lock and re-test to ensure the saw head does not slide forward.
  • Position your work piece and clamp as necessary per the above Hand and Body Position instructions.
  • Active the laser light power switch if desired.
  • Perform your Dry Run and make all necessary adjustments to your set up for a safe Cross Cut.

o   Cross Cut (Chop Cut) Procedure

  • Activate the power switch and then gently lower the saw head into the work piece to begin making the cross cut.
  • Continue the downward pressure until the saw blade cut all the way through the work piece.
  • Hold the saw head down and release the power switch while keeping your hands in this position until the saw blade comes to a full stop.
  • Once the saw blade has come to a full stop, raise the saw head upward into its UP position.
  • Turn off laser light if it was used.
  • Remove your work piece and off cut.

o   Clean Up

  • Either dispose of your off cut into a trash can, take home it home, or if its large enough for someone else to use, place it on the scrap cart.
  • Using a brush, clean all the saw surfaces and surrounding miter saw station tables.
  • Sweep the floor gathering up all the saw dust and wood chips and dispose of them into a trash can.
  • An alternative is to use a shop vac to clean up the miter saw, miter saw station, and floor.

¨    Slide Cut

¨    Miter Cut

¨    Bevel Cut

¨    Compound Cuts

¨    Grooving Cut


Before Use

  • Clear the fence and surrounding area of any debris.
  • Set your angles.
  • Turn on the laser sight if desired.
  • Secure the work piece firmly against the fence; never attempt to cut anything without the work piece firmly held in place.
    • A work piece needs at least 4” of contact with the fence to ensure stability during the cut.

During Use

  • (Almost) always hold the work piece with your left hand, while using the right hand to control the saw.
    • Keep hands and fingers more than 6” from the blade.
  • Let the blade achieve full speed for 1-2 seconds before making contact with the work piece.
  • Let the blade do the cutting, don't force it!
    • Larger work pieces and harder woods will require slower cutting. A brand new blade will cut more quickly than a blade that has seen a few hundred cuts. If you’re forcing the blade through the wood, you’re sawing too fast. If you see smoke, you’re sawing too fast, and possibly using a blade that needs to be replaced.
  • For cuts that require the saw to slide, always extend the saw out to match the width of the work piece before initiating the cut. As the cut is being made, slowly push the saw down and back towards the fence.
  • Let the blade come to a complete stop before removing your work piece.

After Use

  • Return the miter saw to neutral position, turn off the laser, and remove any cutoff scraps that might have fallen near the fence or behind the saw.
  • Activate the dust collector and use a bench brush to sweep sawdust and small debris into the dust chute.
    • Please DO NOT use compressed air to remove sawdust.
  • Sweep the miter benches (left and right of the saw) and leave the area clean and inviting for the next member.

Troubleshooting

Mikita LS1219L Sliding Compound Miter Saw Manual