Plant Stand

From Asmbly Wiki

A simple plant pot stand is suitable for beginners to intermediate woodworkers.

PlantStandFinished.jpg

Overview

This project focuses on creating a sturdy and aesthetically pleasing stand primarily using a Table Saw. Optional steps allow for more refined details like tapered legs and rounded edges. The dimensions can be customized to fit a specific plant pot.

Skills Needed

  • [Optional] Milling lumber with the Jointer and Planer
  • Ripping boards to width on the Table Saw
  • Cross-cutting boards on the Table Saw using a miter fence or sled, or a compound miter saw
  • Cutting a half-lap joint (table saw method described)
  • [Optional] Using a taper leg jig on the Table Saw
  • [Optional] Creating a roundover edge with the Router Table
  • Gluing and assembling simple 90-degree joints
  • Basic measuring and marking

Materials Needed

  • Wood: Approximately 2 inches wide and 1 inch thick. ¾ inch thick material is also suitable. Straight and flat boards can be used to avoid milling.
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper
  • [Optional] Paint or other finish

Non-Asmbly Tools Needed

  • None

Design and Measurements

The design consists of two intersecting stretcher pieces that form a cross, with four legs attached to the ends of these stretchers.

Plant stand stretcher with dimensions.
Plant stand leg with dimensions.

Before starting, measure the diameter of the base of the plant pot you intend to place on the stand. The length of the stretcher pieces will depend on this measurement, ensuring the pot sits securely within the legs. The height of the legs can be adjusted based on aesthetic preference.

Example Dimensions

  • Legs (x4): 1 inch thick x 2 inches wide x 14 inches long (adjust length as desired)
  • Stretchers (x2): 1 inch thick x 1.5 inches wide x 8 inches long (adjust length based on pot diameter; this length would be suitable for a pot up to ~8 inches in diameter at the base)

Procedure

1. Milling Lumber (Optional)

This step is only required if your material is rough, warped, or not of the desired thickness.

  1. Flatten one face of your material on the Jointer. Always use push blocks.
  2. Place the jointed face against the fence and flatten one edge on the Jointer, making it 90 degrees to the first face. This jointed edge will be crucial for accurate ripping.
  3. Use a Planer to mill the opposite face parallel to the first, bringing the board to its final thickness (e.g., ¾ inch or 1 inch).

2. Cutting Parts to Width (Ripping)

After milling (or if using pre-dimensioned lumber), cut the boards to their final width.

  1. Set the Table Saw fence to the desired width of your parts (e.g., 2 inches).
  2. Place the board on the Table Saw with its jointed edge (from milling step 1.2) or a factory-straight edge against the fence.
  3. Turn on the saw and carefully push the board through the blade, using a push stick or push block as the board nears the end of the cut, especially for the last several inches.
  4. Rip enough material for all four legs and two stretchers to final width.

3. Cutting Parts to Length

  1. Determine the final length for your legs and stretchers based on your design.
  2. Use a Table Saw Sled or a miter gauge on the Table Saw, or a compound miter saw, to cut the four legs and two stretchers to their respective lengths from the ripped boards.
  3. Tip: Use a stop block when cutting multiple pieces to the same length. This ensures consistency.
    File:Stop Block Miter Saw Placeholder.jpg
    Example of a stop block setup on a miter saw.
    File:Stop Block Crosscut Sled Placeholder.jpg
    Example of a stop block setup on a table saw crosscut sled.

4. Cutting the Half-Lap Joint

The two stretcher pieces will be joined at their centers using a half-lap joint.

  1. Mark the Joint:
    1. Find the center of each stretcher piece along its length and width. Mark these centerlines.
    2. The lap joint will be as wide as the material (e.g., 2 inches if using 2-inch wide material). Mark the outlines of the joint on both pieces, centered on the length.
  2. Set Blade Height: Adjust the Table Saw blade height to exactly half the thickness of the stretcher material. For example, if the material is ¾ inch thick, set the blade height to ⅜ inch.
  3. Cut the Joint:
    1. Using your miter gauge or Table Saw Sled, make a pass on the inside edge of each marked line for the lap joint.
    2. Make successive passes between these initial cuts to remove the waste material. Alternatively, use a dado stack set to the width of the material to remove the waste in a single pass per side of the joint.
    3. The goal is to remove material from one stretcher piece on its top side, and from the other stretcher piece on its bottom side, so they interlock flush.
  4. Test Fit: The two pieces should fit together snugly, forming a flat cross. If the fit is too tight, carefully remove a small amount of additional material. If it's too loose, you may need to remake a piece or use shims if the gap is minimal.

5. Tapering the Legs (Optional)

Tapering the legs can add a more refined look. A common taper is on the two inside faces of each leg.

  1. Decide on the amount of taper (e.g., from 2 inches at the top to 1 inch or 1.5 inches at the bottom. or use a 5 degree angle recommended in the plans).
  2. Mark the taper lines on the legs.
  3. Use a taper jig on the Table Saw to safely cut the tapers. Asmbly owns a micro jig taper jig. Watch the instructional videos produced by micro jig before using.
  4. Alternatively, a Bandsaw can be used to cut tapers, followed by sanding or hand planing to smooth the cut.

6. Rounding Edges (Optional)

Rounding the edges can soften the look and feel of the stand.

  1. Select a roundover bit (e.g., ¼ inch or ⅛ inch radius) for the Router Table.
  2. Adjust the router bit height and fence for the desired amount of roundover (Refer to Router Table usage guidelines).
  3. Carefully pass all desired edges of the legs and stretchers over the router bit. For the legs, you might choose to round the outer edges. For the stretchers, you might round the top and bottom edges. This is ultimately an ascetic choice.

7. Sanding

  1. Sand all parts before assembly, starting with a medium grit Sandpaper (e.g., 120 grit) to remove any machine marks and smooth the surfaces.
  2. "Break" or slightly ease any sharp edges with Sandpaper if you did not use a router to round them over.

8. Assembly and Gluing

  1. Dry Fit: Assemble the entire stand without glue to ensure all parts fit correctly. Now is the time to make any necessary adjustments.
  2. Attach the Legs:
    1. Attach two legs at to a stretcher. lay the entire assembly flat on the table ans use a single clap to provide light clamping pressure. Ensure each leg is square to the stretchers and that the assembly remains stable.
  3. Clean Up: Remove any glue squeeze-out immediately with a damp cloth or allow it to partially cure and then carefully pare it away with a sharp chisel or scraper.
  4. Glue the Half-Lap Joint (Optional)
    1. Apply a thin, even layer of wood glue to the mating surfaces of the half-lap joint on the stretchers.
    2. Join the two stretcher pieces, ensuring they are flush and square. Remove any squeeze-out with a damp cloth or a chisel once partially cured.

Safety Considerations

  • Always wear safety glasses when operating machinery or performing any woodworking task. Refer to the Safety Guidelines page for comprehensive safety guidelines.
  • Use push blocks and push sticks when working with the Jointer and Table Saw, especially for smaller pieces or when hands are near the blade.
  • Ensure all machine guards are in place and functioning correctly.
  • Read and understand the manuals for all power tools before use. Many are available on their respective tool pages on this wiki.
  • Keep your work area clean and free of clutter.
  • Disconnect power to tools before changing blades or bits.
  • Be aware of hand placement at all times to avoid injury. Never reach over a running blade.

See Also

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