Difference between revisions of "BambuLab P1S"
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{{Hosted|Michael Dixon}} | {{Hosted|Michael Dixon}} | ||
+ | [[Category:3D Printing]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Asmbly has one Bambulab P1s 3D Printer and one Automatic Material System (AMS). Located in the in the Multi-Purpose Room, these in the far corner to the room between the Prusa printers and resin printers. The P1S is named Poseidon. | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ToolPhoto|Prusa_MK3S.jpg}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | {| class="wikitable" width="100%" style="text-align: center; margin: auto" | ||
+ | |+ASMBLY Bambulab P1S Printer | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | {{Infobox 3d printer | ||
+ | | Printer Name = Poseidon | ||
+ | | Status = {{PrinterActive}} | ||
+ | | Video Feed = [TBD] | ||
+ | | Manufacturer = Bambulab | ||
+ | | Model = P1S + AMS | ||
+ | | Network Address = TBD | ||
+ | | WebInterface = TBD | ||
+ | | Nozzle Size (mm) = 0.4 | ||
+ | | Nozzle Type = Stainless Steel (Abrasives Allowed) | ||
+ | | Nozzle Count = 1 | ||
+ | | Filament Size (mm) = 1.75 | ||
+ | | Print Volume (mm) = 256 x 256 x 256 | ||
+ | | Max Bed Temperature (C) = 100 | ||
+ | | Max Nozzle Temperature (C) = 300 | ||
+ | | Max Print Speed (mm/s) = 500 | ||
+ | | Extruder Type = Direct | ||
+ | | Manual = [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1] | ||
+ | }} | ||
+ | || | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Safety== | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{UniversalSafety}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Equipment-Specific Safety==== | ||
+ | [[BambulabP1S: Techniques]] is required to use this tool. | ||
+ | |||
+ | No special PPE is required to use this tool. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Booking Policies ==== | ||
+ | Time booked for 3D printing in [https://asmbly.skedda.com Skedda] does not count against your weekly Asmbly hours. It is fine for a print to continue while Asmbly is closed. | ||
+ | |||
+ | # '''Book all of the time you need.''' Only print during time that you have booked. Don’t start prints that will go beyond your booked time. If your print has been paused or stopped because of a problem, don’t resume or restart it if it will go beyond your booked time. If time is available after your booked time, feel free to book more time to finish your print. If another member has already booked time that your print would need to use, and you contact them and get their approval, you may finish your print. However, if you do not manage to contact them, or if they do not agree to let you continue, then do not start, resume, or restart prints that would go into their time. | ||
+ | # '''Time you book is yours.''' If you arrive for your booked time and a print is ongoing, you may stop that print. If a print only has a few minutes remaining, it would be nice if you let it finish, but you are not under an obligation to do so. | ||
+ | # '''Give back time that you don’t need'''. If you realize you’ll be late, change your booking to start when you’ll actually be ready to start. If your print ends early, end your booking early in Skedda. [[File:End Early.jpg|thumb]] | ||
+ | # '''Don’t let time go to waste.''' There is a two hour grace period at the beginning of a booking. If the booker is not present after two hours and the printer is still idle, another member may claim the remainder of the time on a first-come, first-served basis. Email [[Mailto:3dprinters@asmbly.org|3dprinters@asmbly.org]] to let us know that this happened. There is a 30 minute grace period after the completion of a print. If the booker is not present and the printer is idle, another member may claim the remainder of the time on a first-come, first-served basis. Email [[Mailto:3dprinters@asmbly.org|3dprinters@asmbly.org]] to let us know that this happened. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Etiquette==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you come in for your scheduled time and a print has finished, feel free to move it and any filament on the machine to the table to the left of the enclosure. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you are in the 3D printing area and see a print in progress that is obviously failing, it is a good idea to stop the print so that it stops wasting filament. Try to contact the person who has that printer booked in Skedda to let them know. [https://yo.asmbly.org Discourse] is a good way to do that, if you don't already know them. | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Use Case== | ||
+ | [[File:Threeprusai3s.jpg|alt=Apollo, Hermes, and Sunwukong|thumb|All three printers]] | ||
+ | The Bambulab P1S is a good printer to produce small and medium sized objects using up to 4 filaments with the AMS using many common filament types. The filaments can be mapped to the model using Bambu Slicer, Bambulab's proprietary slicer software. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you need to print larger things, consider splitting the models into smaller parts or use the [[Prusa XL]]. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you need to print in ABS, ASA, or other materials that print better enclosed, please make sure to preheat the bed with the door closed for a minimum of 30 minutes at 60C. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Use [https://asmbly.skedda.com Skedda] to reserve time on the specific printer. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Materials== | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Acceptable Materials==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Many types of 1.75mm filament will work with this printer. Please note that when using cardboard spools in the AMS, members MUST place a printed spool ring over the spool edge to avoid cardboard dust buildup inside the AMS. | ||
+ | |||
+ | This printers is not currently equipped with an abrasion-resistant nozzle. This means that filaments that include additives like glow-in-the-dark (strontium aluminate), carbon fiber, glass fiber, wood, or metal cannot be used with this machine. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Material Limits==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Print volume is 256mm x 256mm x 256mm (10" x 10" x 10") | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Consumables==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | You are responsible for providing your own filament. There are many places to order from, including [https://www.matterhackers.com/ MatterHackers], [https://www.prusa3d.com/category/filament/ Prusa], [https://polymaker.com/ Polymaker], and Amazon. We are not currently aware of any place to buy filament locally, but if you know of one, we'd be interested! | ||
+ | |||
+ | If using a micro SD card to start a print, one is available for use and is always inserted into the P1S. However, if you find yourself printing from micro SD frequently, consider bringing your own. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Asmbly currently only provides a textured PEI printing sheet. Asmbly also provides cleaners for the sheet: Isopropyl Alcohol (usually in a squeeze bottle with the printer tools) and Dish Soap (in the coffee area just outside of the multi-purpose room. | ||
+ | ==Operation== | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Controls==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Emergency Stop ====== | ||
+ | If you see or hear something going terribly wrong with the printer, you can immediately stop it by shutting off the power switch located at the back bottom right of the machine. Examples of situations where you would want to do this: the nozzle is contacting the steel plate, the printer is trying to move the head beyond its rails. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you just need to stop a print, please press the dial control and select <code>Stop Print</code>. The <code>X</code> button sometimes causes the printer to lose some of its settings and need to be recalibrated, so avoid using it for things you can stop normally. But if you are in doubt, do use the <code>X</code> button. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Control Panel ====== | ||
+ | The printer has a control panel that can be used to do things like preheating the machine, loading and unloading filament, pausing/stopping a print, and starting a print from an SD card. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Stopping or Pausing a print ====== | ||
+ | You can stop a print from either the Devices menu in Bambu Slicer or the control panel. If you stop or pause a print from Bambu Slicer, it will not move the nozzle clear of your print. If you hope to resume, it is probably better to do this from the control panel. | ||
+ | ======Firmware Upgrade Warning====== | ||
+ | Ignore messages about a firmware upgrade warning.. | ||
+ | ====Settings and Adjustments==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Filament ====== | ||
+ | Make sure that your gcode is sliced for the particular kind of filament you're using. You can select the filament type on the control panel, and adjust the bed and nozzle temperatures. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Print Bed Sheet ====== | ||
+ | {{Note|type=error|text=🛑 DO NOT PRINT DIRECTLY ON THE BED. ALWAYS USE A STEEL SHEET.}} | ||
+ | [[File:Prusa MK3S+ Display.jpg|alt=The Prusa MK3S+ display showing that the Smooth1 sheet is active|thumb|Calibrated for Smooth1]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | There is a chart on the enclosure that lists which sheets are best for each kind of filament, or check Section 6.3.2 of the [https://cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3s_en.pdf handbook] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Make sure that the printer knows which sheet is on it. The sheets have different thicknesses, and you may not get a good first layer if the wrong sheet is selected. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Cleanup== | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{UniversalCleaning}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Tool Specific Cleaning Guide==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | * Remove any scraps of filament from the enclosure | ||
+ | * Return any tools you used to the tool caddy | ||
+ | * Make sure the steel sheet you used is clear of any leftover filament | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Resources== | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Manual==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | *[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1] | ||
+ | *[[Bambu Slicer]] | ||
+ | *[[3D Filament Temperature Tower]] - Fine tune your temperature settings for a particular filament | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Discourse Links==== | ||
+ | [https://yo.asmbly.org/c/spaces/3dprinters/11 yo.asmbly.org] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====External Resources==== | ||
+ | Places to find models to print: | ||
+ | |||
+ | * [https://www.stlfinder.com/#google_vignette STLFinder] | ||
+ | * [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse] | ||
+ | * [https://www.printables.com/ Printables] | ||
+ | * [https://www.yeggi.com/ Yeggi] | ||
+ | * Buy from makers on Etsy | ||
+ | * [https://www.myminifactory.com/ MyMiniFactory] for DnD miniatures | ||
+ | |||
+ | Places to buy filament: | ||
+ | |||
+ | * [https://www.matterhackers.com/ MatterHackers] | ||
+ | |||
+ | * [https://www.prusa3d.com/category/filament/ Prusa] | ||
+ | |||
+ | * [https://polymaker.com/ Polymaker] | ||
+ | * Amazon | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Troubleshooting== | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Common Problems==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Model not sticking to the sheet ====== | ||
+ | If you are having trouble with getting your first layer to stick properly try these: | ||
+ | |||
+ | # Double check that the printer is configured for the right sheet | ||
+ | # Clean the '''cool''' sheet with Isopropyl Alcohol (in a squeeze bottle with the other tools) | ||
+ | # Wash the sheet with dish soap at the coffee area sink. '''Make sure the sheet is completely dry before reinstalling it.''' | ||
+ | # Adjust the Z calibration. You can do this by going through the <code>Calibration > First Layer Calibration</code> process on the control panel (Section 6.3.9 of the [https://cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3s_en.pdf handbook]). You can also adjust it live while your first layer prints (Press the control wheel while printing, select <code>Live adjust Z</code> ). If you find that you need to set a Z value beyond -2.000mm, please file a problem report. You can continue your print, but this indicates that the Z sensor needs to be adjusted. | ||
+ | # Contact a steward | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Nozzle has plastic stuck to it ====== | ||
+ | This often happens as a result of the model not sticking to the sheet, and causes problems when you try again. | ||
+ | {{Note|type=warning|text=⚠️ The nozzle is probably very hot! Don't touch it with something that will burn... like your fingers!}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | # Use <code>Settings > Move axis > Move Z</code> to raise the nozzle so you can see under it | ||
+ | # Touch some cool plastic to the still-hot plastic on the nozzle. It should stick and let you pull the mess away | ||
+ | # Heat the nozzle above the printing temperature for your filament, for example, try 250° for PLA, which normally prints around 215°. Wait for the nozzle to heat up and let the melted plastic drip off of the nozzle | ||
+ | # Use the tweezers from the tool caddy to grab larger lumps | ||
+ | # Use the soft-bristled brush in the tool caddy to wipe the warm nozzle | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====== Other ====== | ||
+ | If you are unsure, it is always best to contact a steward and fill out a [https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfBhIcxwJPpBbuTVlxZ6-hSfNduEM5kkT0e4JP_uxGe9Ar75Q/viewform problem report] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Maintenance== | ||
+ | The information below is primarily for stewards. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Regular Maintenance ==== | ||
+ | The lead screws should be cleaned and lubricated regularly. This video provides a good walkthrough: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AzW-bWefrk How To Service Your Prusa i3 MK3] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Octoprint ==== | ||
+ | [https://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182 Octoprint - Configuration and install] | ||
+ | |||
+ | The Octoprint configuration is the standard OctoPi installation, consisting of the Raspberry Pi 3 or 4 being attached to the back of the printer frame, connected via USB to the printer and via Ethernet to the ASMBLY network (WiFi connection from the Pi to the network is currently unstable), with the OctoPi 1.0.0 (build 2023.10.09.151442) stable image installed on the Pi. In an attempt to keep the printers as easily serviced and maintained, we are trying to keep the installation as standard as possible. More documentation about OctoPi can be found [https://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182 here]. Files for printing replacement Pi 3B and Pi 4B cases can be found here: | ||
+ | |||
+ | *[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4425749 Pi 4 Case with Prusa i3 Mounting] | ||
+ | *[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3004038 Pi 3 Case with Prusa i3 Mounting] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Moving the printers ==== | ||
+ | Due to the Octoprint installation on the printers, take extra care to make sure not only the main power cable is unplugged from the printer, but also the ethernet cable and the USB power cable connected to the Pi mounted to the back-upper-left corner of the printer when moving the printer around or out of the enclosure. Remember to reconnect these later. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Rebooting Procedure==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | In order to fully reboot the printer and the Octoprint server attached to it, power off the Pi at the back-upper-left of the printer by toggling its inline power switch, and turn the printer off using the power switch on the power supply unit at the back of the printer. Then toggle the power supply unit switch back on, and then turn the Pi back on. The Octoprint page should be reachable in under one minute. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Z Problems ==== | ||
+ | If the printer is printing too far away or too close to the bed for the first layer (to see what these look like look at Section 6.3.9 of the [https://cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3s_en.pdf handbook]), the Z probably needs to be fine tuned. Try this: | ||
+ | |||
+ | # Make sure the printer knows which sheet is on the bed. Different sheets have different calibrations | ||
+ | # Run through the <code>Calibration > First Layer Calibration</code> process on the control panel (Section 6.3.9 of the [https://cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3s_en.pdf handbook]) | ||
+ | # If you have trouble calibrating Z using just the First Layer Calibration, or you want to check the calibration, these models have been useful. They may already be on the printer in a directory named Calibration. If not, create that directory and/or add these files. | ||
+ | ## [[:File:First layer calibration network.stl|Calibration Network]] | ||
+ | ## [[:File:First layer calibration E.stl|Calibration E]] | ||
+ | # If you have to set the Z further out than -2.000mm, the Z sensor probably needs to be adjusted. See 6.3.10.2 of the handbook | ||
+ | ## The proper height for the sensor is about a [https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mk3s-mk3s_179920#181423 zip tie's thickness] | ||
+ | ## If you move the Z sensor, do a Z Calibration, then calibrate the first layer again. You'll need to do this for all three sheet types, Textured, Satin, and Smooth. | ||
+ | |||
[[Category:3D Printing]] | [[Category:3D Printing]] |
Revision as of 00:06, 16 February 2025
Members must complete the BambuLab P1S: Techniques Class before using this tool
Maintenance
This tool is owned by Michael Dixon and hosted at Asmbly for members to use. Please submit a problem report if maintenance is required.
Asmbly has one Bambulab P1s 3D Printer and one Automatic Material System (AMS). Located in the in the Multi-Purpose Room, these in the far corner to the room between the Prusa printers and resin printers. The P1S is named Poseidon.
|
SafetyUniversal Safety
Equipment-Specific SafetyBambulabP1S: Techniques is required to use this tool. No special PPE is required to use this tool. Booking PoliciesTime booked for 3D printing in Skedda does not count against your weekly Asmbly hours. It is fine for a print to continue while Asmbly is closed.
EtiquetteIf you come in for your scheduled time and a print has finished, feel free to move it and any filament on the machine to the table to the left of the enclosure. If you are in the 3D printing area and see a print in progress that is obviously failing, it is a good idea to stop the print so that it stops wasting filament. Try to contact the person who has that printer booked in Skedda to let them know. Discourse is a good way to do that, if you don't already know them. Use CaseThe Bambulab P1S is a good printer to produce small and medium sized objects using up to 4 filaments with the AMS using many common filament types. The filaments can be mapped to the model using Bambu Slicer, Bambulab's proprietary slicer software. If you need to print larger things, consider splitting the models into smaller parts or use the Prusa XL. If you need to print in ABS, ASA, or other materials that print better enclosed, please make sure to preheat the bed with the door closed for a minimum of 30 minutes at 60C. Use Skedda to reserve time on the specific printer. MaterialsAcceptable MaterialsMany types of 1.75mm filament will work with this printer. Please note that when using cardboard spools in the AMS, members MUST place a printed spool ring over the spool edge to avoid cardboard dust buildup inside the AMS. This printers is not currently equipped with an abrasion-resistant nozzle. This means that filaments that include additives like glow-in-the-dark (strontium aluminate), carbon fiber, glass fiber, wood, or metal cannot be used with this machine. Material LimitsPrint volume is 256mm x 256mm x 256mm (10" x 10" x 10") ConsumablesYou are responsible for providing your own filament. There are many places to order from, including MatterHackers, Prusa, Polymaker, and Amazon. We are not currently aware of any place to buy filament locally, but if you know of one, we'd be interested! If using a micro SD card to start a print, one is available for use and is always inserted into the P1S. However, if you find yourself printing from micro SD frequently, consider bringing your own. Asmbly currently only provides a textured PEI printing sheet. Asmbly also provides cleaners for the sheet: Isopropyl Alcohol (usually in a squeeze bottle with the printer tools) and Dish Soap (in the coffee area just outside of the multi-purpose room. OperationControlsEmergency StopIf you see or hear something going terribly wrong with the printer, you can immediately stop it by shutting off the power switch located at the back bottom right of the machine. Examples of situations where you would want to do this: the nozzle is contacting the steel plate, the printer is trying to move the head beyond its rails. If you just need to stop a print, please press the dial control and select Control PanelThe printer has a control panel that can be used to do things like preheating the machine, loading and unloading filament, pausing/stopping a print, and starting a print from an SD card. Stopping or Pausing a printYou can stop a print from either the Devices menu in Bambu Slicer or the control panel. If you stop or pause a print from Bambu Slicer, it will not move the nozzle clear of your print. If you hope to resume, it is probably better to do this from the control panel. Firmware Upgrade WarningIgnore messages about a firmware upgrade warning.. Settings and AdjustmentsFilamentMake sure that your gcode is sliced for the particular kind of filament you're using. You can select the filament type on the control panel, and adjust the bed and nozzle temperatures. Print Bed SheetThere is a chart on the enclosure that lists which sheets are best for each kind of filament, or check Section 6.3.2 of the handbook Make sure that the printer knows which sheet is on it. The sheets have different thicknesses, and you may not get a good first layer if the wrong sheet is selected. CleanupUniversal Cleaning Guide
Tool Specific Cleaning Guide
ResourcesManual
Discourse LinksExternal ResourcesPlaces to find models to print:
Places to buy filament:
TroubleshootingCommon ProblemsModel not sticking to the sheetIf you are having trouble with getting your first layer to stick properly try these:
Nozzle has plastic stuck to itThis often happens as a result of the model not sticking to the sheet, and causes problems when you try again.
OtherIf you are unsure, it is always best to contact a steward and fill out a problem report MaintenanceThe information below is primarily for stewards. Regular MaintenanceThe lead screws should be cleaned and lubricated regularly. This video provides a good walkthrough: How To Service Your Prusa i3 MK3 OctoprintOctoprint - Configuration and install The Octoprint configuration is the standard OctoPi installation, consisting of the Raspberry Pi 3 or 4 being attached to the back of the printer frame, connected via USB to the printer and via Ethernet to the ASMBLY network (WiFi connection from the Pi to the network is currently unstable), with the OctoPi 1.0.0 (build 2023.10.09.151442) stable image installed on the Pi. In an attempt to keep the printers as easily serviced and maintained, we are trying to keep the installation as standard as possible. More documentation about OctoPi can be found here. Files for printing replacement Pi 3B and Pi 4B cases can be found here: Moving the printersDue to the Octoprint installation on the printers, take extra care to make sure not only the main power cable is unplugged from the printer, but also the ethernet cable and the USB power cable connected to the Pi mounted to the back-upper-left corner of the printer when moving the printer around or out of the enclosure. Remember to reconnect these later. Rebooting ProcedureIn order to fully reboot the printer and the Octoprint server attached to it, power off the Pi at the back-upper-left of the printer by toggling its inline power switch, and turn the printer off using the power switch on the power supply unit at the back of the printer. Then toggle the power supply unit switch back on, and then turn the Pi back on. The Octoprint page should be reachable in under one minute. Z ProblemsIf the printer is printing too far away or too close to the bed for the first layer (to see what these look like look at Section 6.3.9 of the handbook), the Z probably needs to be fine tuned. Try this:
|